In Conversation with L’Escargot Bleu Restaurant and Wine Bar
L’Escargot Bleu is a Pasture for Life approved and acclaimed Edinburgh restaurant, helmed by French chef Fred Berkmiller. Combining traditional recipes with the best Scottish ingredients, Fred draws on nearly 20 years of working with small, sustainable farms. His focus on pasture-fed meat and homegrown produce has earned the restaurant multiple awards and a loyal following.
Fred Berkmiller
Was there one thing that inspired you to become a Pasture for Life approved restaurant?
Becoming Pasture for Life approved felt like a very natural step for me, as it perfectly aligned with my food philosophy, always seeking the most natural ingredients possible. Building relationships with like minded people has also been incredibly important.
I’ve always been enthusiastic about sourcing the most ethical meat and produce, both for myself and my customers, so becoming Pasture for Life approved was just a wee step forward.
I’m also a gardener as well as a chef, growing vegetables in a 1,200 square metre garden, so I understand the importance of healthy soil.
L’Escargot Bleu’s vegetable garden
What’s one piece of advice would you give to other restaurants thinking about Pasture for Life approval?
There was no surprise in becoming Pasture for Life approved, it comes down to willingness and dedication. It takes a bit of work to buy regularly, but it’s very rewarding to work with different farmers, and tasting such a wide variety of produce, it’s a real joy for the tastebuds.
It can only be a good thing to welcome more chefs on board. Customers are very interested in provenance and keen to know that a restaurant can be fully transparent and informed, with a clear understanding of where their meats comes from and that it has been reared and fed in the best possible condition. Nutrition as well is so important.
What’s your relationship like with the Pasture for Life certified farmers you buy from?
I have extremely good relationships with all farmers I work with. They’re fully committed to producing the best, and every one of them is proud to have their meat served at L’Escargot Bleu.
I’ve also built a strong partnership with a butcher who sources Pasture for Life cattle on my behalf and does all the butchering. I take what I need for the restaurant, and the rest is sold in his shop.
To me, any farmer who has taken the extra step to become Pasture for Life certified is someone who truly cares, and that’s invaluable. What follows from that kind of commitment is always something special.
One of the restaurant’s suppliers, Pasture for Life certified Balcaskie Estate, Fife
If you could change one thing about the current food supply system, what would it be?
It takes a bit of work to be able to buy Pasture for Life meat on a regular basis but it absolutely can be done. A Pasture for Life wholesale distributor would be marvellous but would perhaps take away some of the fun. For me, direct contact matters. I need to know the people behind the food, to speak with them, get a feel for who they are. That’s an important part of how I choose what to buy.
Sourcing snails from the Isle of Barra
In your view, what’s the number one reason diners and shoppers should choose certified pasture fed produce?
The name says it all. When I say health, I mean the health of the animals, the customer, and the soil.
Do you have a customer favourite that features Pasture for Life produce?
We always have a steak on the menu, ribeye or sirloin, but our best seller is probably our boeuf bourguignon. It’s made with chuck and blade, cooked three times in a beef stock that has cooked for 4 days. The result is deeply flavourful and certainly enjoyable.
Boeuf bourguignon
Steak tartare
